Introduction

As Turkey blows out the candles celebrating 82 years of statehood, it is entitled to a moment of reflection. Just as an individual may think back over a life of achievement to the adventures of youth, so too a nation remembers its history. The Turkish story is one of remarkable accomplishment - the construction of an enduring, secular democracy on the ashes of an empire. It is also an exciting tale that begins with the extraordinary heroism of both a people and a visionary leader. The founding of the Republic is a rare instance of conviction and idealism triumphing over fierce odds.

The history of the last 80 years is a story with a purpose. That purpose is to ensure the productive lives of over 65 million Turkish citizens. Turks enjoy a free and democratic society and the nation bears its full responsibility in the architecture of the modern world. Situated on NATO's southern flank, Turkey continues to hold enormous importance for the western alliance it helped to create. In addition to this strategic importance, the country now finds itself at the center of over-lapping economic zones, some of which did not even exist a decade ago. Prominent among these are the oil and gas-rich states of Central Asia to which Turkey has not just geographic but cultural affinity. Turkey is also the industrial and trading hub of the states around the Black Sea and in the Near East. But underlining both its Western vocation and economic strength is its customs union with the European Union: Turkish products compete at home and abroad on equal terms with those of the most developed economies. Turkey is poised to play a constructive role in the political and economic reconstruction of the Balkans, the Caucasus and Middle East. It is also a force for international cooperation in the environmental protection of the Black Sea, the Mediterranean and the Aegean. Turkish leadership in these areas is all the more valuable for its example as a secular democracy where the great majority of its population professes Islam. If a "Turkish model" exists, it is for its political institutions, its entrepreneurial and productive skills, and the benefits which its people have reaped from competition and free trade.

Eighty years was no ordinary birthday. It was particularly poignant because those of the first generation who helped relaunch the nation back in 1923 would have been those most to celebrate what has been achieved. It would be tempting to dedicate this anniversary to them, but they would have been the first to say that birthdays are for young people. And Turkey, in its demographic composition and in its enthusiasm, remains an extraordinarily youthful nation.

Proof of that vigor is the pace at which the nation embraces change. The Istanbul Stock Exchange has a technological infrastructure as sophisticated as those of markets in Zurich or Milan which it out-trades on a good day. The skyline of Turkish corporates includes firms inching their way up the Fortune 500. Turkey sells televisions to Japan and fashion accessories to New York. Once-isolated towns in the east now fill order books for department stores in Hamburg and Madrid, being chosen as suppliers because of quality and rapid delivery. An area surrounding the Tigris and the Euphrates rivers and equal in size to the entire Benelux countries put together is becoming a garden again as the result of a massive hydroelectric and irrigation project. And all this is happening at a rate which would astound not only those who celebrated that proclamation of statehood back in 1923 but anyone watching Turkey even a decade ago.
The candles on the cake burned brightly. This is how it all began:

The Birth of a Nation

Like the Russian and Austro-Hungarian Empires, the Ottomans failed to survive the turmoil of the Great War. At the war's conclusion, Istanbul was under occupation and the Sultan reduced to a mere figurehead. The country was in ruins, the population exhausted by war, and Anatolia under invasion.

Turkey was saved from destruction by the man revered as the founder of the modern nation. Mustafa Kemal (1881-1938) was a brilliant young commander who proved himself under fire in the defense of Gallipoli in 1915. In 1919, he embraced Anatolia to lead resistance to what had become a powerless regime. He rallied support at a series of congresses in different parts of the country. He was among the first and arguably the most successful of twentieth century nationalist leaders who transferred sovereignty from an absolute ruler to the consent of the Nation. His task was Herculean. In 1920, Greek armies, with the tacit support of the Great Powers in control of Istanbul, occupied the Aegean coast and began marching inland. Inspired by Mustafa Kemal, their new commander-in-chief, Turkish forces defeated the invading army. The allies diplomatically withdrew from Istanbul.

In 1923 the Turkish Republic was proclaimed within its present boundaries (with the exception of one province later ceded by the French). A nation which had suffered so much through war made an enduring commitment to peace.

Mustafa Kemal hung up his uniform for good and, like a Turkish George Washington, was chosen as the first president of the republic. The task of defending a nation through arms was replaced by the job of giving the emerging young state purpose and direction. As important as his victories on the field were his efforts to redirect Turkish society into the mainstream of twentieth century life. A new civil code ensured women their equal place in society: they received the right to vote before many of their European counterparts. Turkey instituted a Western working week and encouraged universal literacy through the fostering of a Latin alphabet. An appreciative parliament gave Mustafa Kemal the surname of Atatürk, meaning Father of the Turks.

Perhaps the real proof of Atatürk's reforms is not his continuing respect by his fellow countrymen but the system he bequeathed: this allowed the party he founded to be voted out of office in 1950 at free and fair general elections. This was followed in 1952 by Turkey's membership of NATO. In 1963, Turkey signed an Association Agreement with the then European Community with the promise, one day, of becoming a full member.

A Quick Look at the Country

The land on which the Turks have been building stretches 1,000 miles from the Balkans in the west to the Caucasus in the east, and from the Black Sea in the north to the Mediterranean in the south. The size of France and the former West Germany combined, it is larger than any other country in Europe except Russia: its 301,000 square miles make it almost twice as large as California. It is a land of temperate climate and infinite variety, ranging from coastal plains to mountain pastures, from cedar forests through to sweeping steppes. It is one of the world's richest botanical areas, housing over 10,000 species of plants, 3000 of which are endemic to Turkey. Indeed, there are more species in the area of Istanbul than in all of Britain. Lapped by a total of four seas, its 5000 miles of coastline include some of the best preserved beaches of the Aegean and Mediterranean. It is a growing destination for trekkers, with the grandest of its snow-capped mountains being the lofty 17,725-foot summit of Agri Dagi. And it is a country of rivers; both the Tigris and Euphrates rise in Turkey.

Turkey's climate ranges widely. The Southeast is dry, while the Black Sea is clothed in mist; the Mediterranean and Aegean areas have mild winters, but the mountainous Eastern Region lives months of snow and severe cold. Generally, Turkey's summers are long, warm, and rainless, while winters bring snow and cold rain. There is plentiful rain for orchards, fields of grain and reservoirs, and bounteous sun for vineyards and beach-goers. This variety means Turkey grows an unusual range of crops. It is one of the world's main producers of hazel and pistachio nuts, of tobacco and raisins, and of fruit and vegetables.

Turkey's northwestern corner, the Marmara Region, includes Eastern Thrace, which ranges from Edirne to Istanbul. It is an area of rolling grassland and sunflowers, with farming, fishing and light industry. South of this across the Sea of Marmara is excellent agricultural land cultivated in fruit and olive orchards, vineyards and tomato fields. Fishing, mining, and wine making are important here, and the city of Bursa (pop. 2 million) is important for food processing and automobile production. Istanbul (pop. 9.2 million) is Turkey's largest city, its largest port, and the center of finance and commerce. The straits of Istanbul and Çanakkale are important strategic waterways connecting the Aegean and Mediterranean with the Marmara and Black Sea. The Turks oversee passage of all vessels, including those from Russia's only all-year ports, through these straits to the warm waters of the Aegean and Mediterranean. lzmir (pop. 3.1 million) is the most important city in the Aegean Region, a land of fertile plains and river valleys, with some hills and mountains. Olives, figs, grapes, sunflowers, tobacco and other crops grow abundantly here, and there is a significant industrial base. Its beautiful countryside, unspoiled historic sites, wonderful beaches and brilliantly blue water draw tourists from around the world.

The Toros Mountains form the backbone of Turkey's Mediterranean Region, tumbling down to the country's Turquoise coast, which runs from the yachting port of Marmaris, at the western end of the coast, past the booming city of Antalya, to the industrial, agricultural and commercial city of Adana in the east. The area grows cotton, grain, vegetables, pineapples and bananas, and is known for its forests. It has become one of Turkey's main tourist centers, drawing sun-lovers, sailors, hunters and trekkers, as well as those wishing to visit its numerous ancient cities and historical sites.
Central Anatolia, the heartland of the Turkish Republic, is a high (3,000 ft.) plateau broken by mountain ranges, great rivers, and lakes of salt or fresh water. The land is excellent for wheat, cotton and melons, and for grazing sheep, cattle and horses. In springtime, vast swathes of wild flowers carpet its rolling hills. Ankara (pop. 3.7 million) is Turkey's capital, a modern city that has grown up on the site of the ancient Roman town of Angora.

The Black Sea Coast has over 1,000 miles of headland and mountain range, with tumbling streams running through precipitous valleys. This fertile coastal region receives abundant rainfall and is famous for its crops of cherries, hazel nuts, tobacco, dairy products and tea plantations. It is wonderful walking country, with ancient monuments tucked away in its mountain fastnesses.

Southeastern Anatolia is a hot, dry region, good for irrigation, agriculture, sheep grazing, and petroleum exploration and production. Pistachio nuts are a prime product. The Tigris and Euphrates rivers rise in eastern Turkey and meander through the Southeastern Region. The Southeastern Anatolia Project, a $32 billion system of dams, reservoirs, hydroelectric plants, and irrigation channels, is boosting the economy of the region, irrigating an area the size of Ireland and boosting the agricultural output of a country which is already one of the few net food exporters in the world.

The Eastern Region is mostly mountainous, with cooler temperatures and average rainfall. Agriculture is more demanding here, but farmers raise wheat and graze sheep. Because of the region's Alpine beauty and calm, tourism is on the rise. In short, Turkey is a land for all seasons and all senses.

A Long History

The history of Anatolia is rich and deep. Some of mankind's earliest settlements were established here as early as 10,000 BC. Shortly after this, at Çatalhöyük, near Konya, Man first grew grain. In following millenia, civilizations such as Assyrians, Sumerians and Hittites rose and fell. Invaders from abroad left their mark, whether the Men of the Sea, Cyrus, Darius or Alexander the Great. The town of Troy, near Çanakkale, was scene of the Trojan War around 1250 BC. Midas, the king with the golden touch, and Croesus, the inventor of coinage, were rulers of small but important Anatolian kingdoms in the first millennium BC. Many of the great accomplishments of classical Hellenic civilization in the realms of art, architecture, philosophy, medicine and science, came to light in lonia, the region around present-day lzmir and Bergama.

Rome took Anatolia in the last century BC, and called it Asia Minor. The Roman provincial capital of Ephesus was among the largest and finest cities of its time. St. Paul preached there: the Virgin Mary died in a small house on the outskirts of the city. The Seven Churches of Asia, to whom St. Paul addressed Epistles, are all in Anatolia. And St. Nicholas, the original Santa Claus, lived and worked on Anatolia's south coast.

In 330 AD, Constantine the Great established the eastern capital of the Roman Empire at Byzantium, renaming it Constantinople. By the time of the Emperor Justinian (527 to 565 AD) Rome had fallen, and Constantinople was the capital of the vast empire. The Prophet Mohammed was born in 570, and within a century the armies of Islam were threatening the mighty walls of Constantinople. For centuries, the Byzantine and Arabic empires struggled for Anatolia, but both were swept aside by the coming of the Turks.

Turkish Life and Culture

Through the centuries, Turkish artists and artisans have developed styles of art that are uniquely Turkish. Forbidden by islam to portray human and animal forms in art, early Turkish artists turned their creative talents to architecture, music, poetry, weaving, wood and metal working, ceramics, glassblowing, jewelry, manuscript illumination and calligraphy. Most people today are familiar with the silhouette of Turkey's mosques, their soaring domes and slender minarets. Less well-known is the beauty of their interiors, the intricate woodwork of the pulpit or "mihrab," their startling blue and green tiles, their richly-worked carpets, and their stunning calligraphy.

Miniatures were the delightful exception to the ban against real-life painting. There were other exceptions too, as when Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror had his portrait painted by Bellini, something that was expected of a wealthy Renaissance monarch. Today, a new flowering of Turkish art and culture is taking place. Turkish painters and sculptors exhibit at home and abroad, in galleries and biannual festivals. Turkish musicians of international acclaim perform regularly in classical concerts abroad and record on international labels, some of which have been built up by Turks. Turkish writers are increasingly translated and appreciated. And Turkish architects design throughout the world.

Growing private sponsorship of cultural events means that Turkey holds more than a dozen international fine arts and culture festivals a year and hundreds of local ones. Most widely acclaimed are the annual International Istanbul Music, Theater and Film Festivals, which attract participants and spectators from around the world. Fast growing in numbers are jazz and blues festivals.

Theater is especially popular in Turkey, with talented companies performing the works of Shakespeare, Brecht and Chekhov as well as new works by Turkish dramatists. Most of Turkey's largest cities also have regular seasons for opera, symphony, chamber music and ballet. Turkey's own musical heritage is rich, and traditional music is as important to young people as contemporary or pop. Turkish cinema, though small by international standards, is exploring new directions and tackling new themes, often in coproductions with other countries.

The establishment of the Turkish Republic had a great impact on literature and scholarship, primarily through Atatürk's decision to replace use of the Arabic alphabet with that of the Latin one. This measure and others aimed at making the Turkish language easier to learn has resulted in increased literacy. Though the great works of Ottoman scholars, thinkers, writers and poets are still studied, it is the writers of today whose works fill the book shops.

Education in Turkey is universal, coeducational and obligatory for the first eight years. All public schooling through high school is free of charge and public universities are inexpensive. Turkey has around 70 universities and over 800,000 students, many from neighboring countries, enrolled in university or graduate programs. Turkish faculty members regularly share and exchange duties with professors from other countries. Sixteen of Turkey's universities are private and several more are expected to open over the next few years, another indication of the growing support of the private sector for Turkey's cultural life.

Through a Tourist's Eyes

Turkey's rich history has long made it a destination for students of ancient civilizations. Turkey's countryside is dotted with major archeological sites and Anatolia, or Asia Minor as the Romans called this bridge between Europe and Asia, was home to the Hittites, Urartians, Phrygians, Lycians, Lydians, Romans and Byzantines before the arrival of the Turks early in the 11th century AD. Many of Turkey's present cities are built around the ruins of earlier cities. Archeological finds around Istanbul date to the 13th century BC and Istanbul's first urban settlement to 667 BC. Homer was born in Smyrna, present-day lzmir.

More recently, Turkey has become known for the beauty of its natural resources: the turquoise waters of its Aegean and Mediterranean coasts, the volcanic fairyland of Cappadocia, the wild flowers and cloud forests of its Black Sea mountain ranges and the rugged landscape of its eastern steppes. But what makes Turkey so appealing to the majority of its visitors today is its dynamic fusion of cultures, of old and new, East and West, modernity and tradition.

First-time travelers to Turkey's metropolises may be surprised by the rapid growth of high rises, shopping centers and international fast-food chains, and dismayed by their bumper-to-bumper traffic. But beneath these superficial similarities with other fast-growing cities, one quickly finds Turkey's unique flavor. In the bustle of commercial activity, as tides of shoppers sift through the wares of street vendors and small shops that overflow onto the street. In the contrasting calm of tea houses, cafes and restaurants, inexplicably full throughout most of the day. In people's overwhelming hospitality to visitors.

Traveling in Turkey is easy, with major highways crisscrossing the country and unusually comfortable bus services. Turkey also has 14 international airports and domestic flights to all its major cities and tourism centers. For the traveler in search of sun and sea, there are more than 5,000 miles of coastline and accommodation options ranging from five~star hotels and vacation resorts to small family-run "pansiyons" and camping facilities. Yachting along the hidden coves of the western Mediterranean is increasingly popular and Turkey has over 30 marinas, half of these certified to "blue flag" quality and environmental standards. For the traveler in search of outdoor adventure, Turkey offers excellent and little-known opportunities for whitewater rafting, trekking, mountain climbing and bird watching.

Wherever one chooses to visit in Turkey, there are two activities to revel in shopping and eating. Shopping can be a heady experience, with traditional bazaars offering a vast selection of carpets, leather products, antiques, gold jewelry, ceramics and textiles while modern boutiques display the full range of European fashion. But the greatest surprise to most is Turkish cuisine, which, like a tapestry of the country itself, is a masterpiece of fused cultures and traditions. Lamb, savory pastries and fresh seafood are a few of the cuisine's many tantalizing specialties, but its passion is vegetables raw in salads, stuffed with rice and cooked, simmered with meat or served chilled in olive oil. Eggplant alone is prepared in forty different ways, even as pickles and dessert.

Turkey in a Snapshot

Strategically placed

A land of resources

Committed to democracy

A regional leader

An economic power

A land of opportunity